The Wienerwald, known to English speakers as the Vienna Woods, encompasses heavily wooded hills and valleys forming an arc from Vienna west of the Danube to the line of hot springs known as the Thermenlinie in the south. Not only is it a beloved recreational area for Vienna and “the green lungs” of this major city, the Wienerwald also has a long history as a cultural region with its own distinct identity.
One place where this history is especially palpable is the Abbey of Klosterneuburg, located near the Danube on the northern edge of the Wienerwald. Part Gothic and part Baroque, this “sacred palace” symbolizes the close connection between the sacred and the worldly in the Habsburg Empire. Because of its grand scale and magnificence, it is often referred to as “Austria’s Escorial”. It has been one of the premier intellectual centers of the land for nearly 900 years and is world famous for its unique art treasures, particularly for the 12th century Verdun altarpiece. At the end of 1999, Klosterneuburg celebrated the opening of the Essl Collection. Boasting more than 5000 artworks from the last 50 years, it is one of Europe’s most important private art collections.
The spiritual and cultural heart of the southern Wienerwald has been beating continuously for over 850 years at the Abbey of Heiligenkreuz. As the cradle of the Cistercian Order in Niederösterreich, this monastic complex with its part Romanesque, part Gothic church, its cloister and its adjoining chapel ranks as one of the masterpieces of medieval architecture in the province.
Nearby Mayerling, site of a former imperial hunting lodge and present-day convent, has gone down in history as the venue of the sensational suicide of Crown Prince Rudolf, the heir apparent to the Habsburg throne, in 1889. From here, one can pass through the delightful scenery of the famous and much celebrated Helenental to Baden. The historical center of this arts town, well-known for its curative sulfur springs and its operetta tradition, has retained its Biedermeier character virtually intact, both in terms of architecture and atmosphere. The local casino is Austria’s oldest and Europe’s largest.
On the edge of Mödling, a popular nearby resort town of near equal Biedermeier charm, you will find another superlative: The lake grotto here is the largest underground lake on the continent and can be viewed on boat tours. A bit further to the north is Maria Enzersdorf, where the imposing Burg Liechtenstein rises into the sky. Originally Romanesque, the structure was expanded in the 19th century to create an “ideal castle”.
In Laxenburg, the Habsburgs are very much present once again. This imperial complex has an historical core called Altes Schloss and a Late Baroque summer residence known as the Blauer Hof. Elsewhere in the extensive park is the Franzensburg, a Neo-Gothic citadel where Emperor Franz brought together precious artworks from throughout the land during the Biedermeier Period.
Winemaking is also of central importance in the Wienerwald. Wine can be enjoyed in a wonderfully uncomplicated yet intensive way at one of the many traditional “heurige” wine taverns. In this merry and sociable setting, locals and guests alike partake of the owner’s wine and a variety of regional delicacies. Among the most famous wine centers are Klosterneuburg, Perchtoldsdorf, Gumpoldskirchen, Baden and Bad Vöslau.
